By: Matt Simpson, The Beer Sommelier

How many glasses of scotch or bourbon whiskey do you or your bartenders serve in a single day? I think I already know the answer. So, more than any other people in the industry, you know the incredible popularity of these long-historied beverages. You also know, either first hand, or through the descriptions, stories and remembrances of your clientèle, that they can be incredibly complex and enjoyable.

The incredibly historied past of whiskey – bourbon in particular – began with a select location and ingredients. In the case of malt whiskey, its origins are North Western Europe…specifically, the British Isles. Most are created with an abundance of malt, though with American Bourbons originating in Kentucky, the grain bill must include at least 51% corn, which is one of the elements that gives it its unique flavor characteristics and aroma profile.

But the one element all whiskeys have in common is the barrel. If none of these incredible beverages were aged in barrels, they’d simply be moonshine – hooch! It’s the barrel that imparts complexity…layer upon layer of flavor and intricacy to the drink’s palate. The barrel aging also has a mellowing effect, taking a relatively raw, clear, distilled spirit and rounding out its rough edges…leaving it smooth, soft and drinkable. Since these barrels are charred before their use, they also tend to impart a color change to the beverage. The longer they age, generally the darker they become…all while concentrating their essence and bouquet.

When it comes to barrels and whiskey…or any spirit or many fermented beverages, for that matter…time is often a friend.

You may ask what any of this has to do with craft beer? Well, if you’ve learned anything from my preachings, you know that we’re steadily leaving the days of “plain ol’,” pedestrian, lifeless beer behind us. We’re forging ahead, with newfound creativity and complexity in process and production. And one of these new processes for great craft beer is making it even greater by barrel aging.

By and large, the craft beers that lend themselves well to barrel aging are those with a certain naturally inherent level of flavor, body and presence. These beers are often big and bold, with lots of character and alcohol already present and benefit from the further strata of complexity that a barrel passes on to its host. They may also often benefit from the softening effect that barrels leave.

It seems as though I’ve neglected to tell you exactly why these barrels are so special to the processing of craft beer, though. What makes whiskey barrels such a perfect match for certain craft beers? What’s the common thread between these distilled spirit barrels and their fermented malt beverage counterparts?

Well, I say “counterparts” because at their hearts, both have malt as a base ingredient. But moreover, malt whiskey is essentially brewed as beer, then fermented and distilled. Sure, in the case of bourbon whiskey, corn plays a big role, but the mashing, brewing and fermenting processes are very similar.

Beyond that, the barrels used for aging beer are often the very barrels that come from the distilleries creating these amazing whiskies. Once they’re used for aging their respective spirits, for whatever their perfectly determined time, they may find a second life, holding and metamorphosing craft beer. And that metamorphosis can be nothing short of miraculous, working in harmony with the many various ingredients of a beer – from fruitiness and spice given by yeasts, to roast and caramel given by malts.

Whiskey barrels, in particular, can bestow an amazing array of flavor and aroma profiles, including those of vanilla, coconut, soft whiskey, licorice, berries, leather and many more. Here’s a random description of a popular barrel aged imperial stout, from a respected beer-rating website. I think this person’s narrative perfectly shows how a great beer can become nothing short of sublime, given some time in a barrel:

“Pours a dark black with no head and almost no carbonation. This doesn’t bother me, since my favorite in this style was even more still. Ruddy orange fringe. Aroma is a building steam train of gentle coffees and Tahitian vanilla beans steeped in fresh whipping cream and brown sugar. Moves into a supple and not harsh bourbon poured into gingerbread and spice cake. A hint of brandy vapor. Some savory herbal notes, with oregano and tarragon. Sweet candied limes dipped in rum sugars, with a finish of black currant and pears. Flavor is priceless and indescribable. Liquid heaven. Palate is a dense, absolutely syrupy sugar elixir that holds, disperses, and perform the flavors with total elegance. Finish and smack carry the very gentle and floral glowing qualities of an exquisite 21-year old single malt. A lot of the rich condensed malt and oaky finish characters ring through. More vinous than beery, with copious rich berry notes and continuing brandy and cognac vapors in the finish. Totally rounded and mellowed by the beers, with NO harsh edges. And the flavors are original each time they touch the palate, without fatigue. Finally, it’s a touch thin, to me, as it could be even denser, but it still has that ubiquitous cold cream texture that stays with the beer and maintains astounding density and quality as the beer continues. All around beer heaven.”

But wait – there’s more! Some brewers are even using wine, brandy or plain oak barrels to age their wares. And they often have unique characteristics of their own.

The bottom line, and great news for you and your clientèle, is that these beers, while often more expensive because of the rigors, volume constraints and time investment of barrel aging, are becoming increasingly available to the public – not solely the realm of beer enthusiasts at brewery release parties. Ask your better beer distributors to suggest a couple that you may keep handy for your more discerning customers. A few breweries producing these amazing beers that are becoming widely distributed are: Great Divide (Midwest/National), Bush/Scaldis (Belgium), Allagash (Northeast), J.W. Lees (England), Goose Island (Midwest), Dominion (East) and Firestone Walker (West).