Independent Spirits
On the heels of this came the Panic of 1893, the Temperance movement, the one-two punch of 14 years of prohibition, World Wars and more taxation and legislation. Follow this with the baby-boomers growing interest in wine and vodka (which was almost exclusively imported), as a means to separate themselves from what their parents drank, and you could begin to wonder why American distillers just didn’t throw in the towel.
Blessedly however, as the quality of American wines improved, a closer scrutiny had begun of the rest of America’s bounty, including its culinary offerings and talent. As our palates became more sophisticated with fellow Americans Julia Child, Alice Waters and Robert Mondavi leading the way, suddenly it was not only cool, but important to be knowledgeable about quality food and wine. We began to appreciate the rewards of eating and drinking seasonally as well as regionally and we began to understand how alcoholic beverages could enhance any meal through thoughtful pairings.
Over the last two decades we have seen chefs become celebrities, brewpubs become destination restaurants, and prices for American wine skyrocket. And now, finally, we are coming full-circle, firing up those stills and producing some of the most artisanal distillates in the world.
The early production staff at Tuthilltown. Clockwise from the still Founder/Partner Ralph Erenzo, Gable Erenzo, Jared Powers, Joel Elder, Founder/Partner Brian Lee.
Almost every state has at least one operating Craft Distillery. Whether they are making classically styled whisk(e)y, rum, gin, fruit brandy, moonshine or vodka or even something completely innovative, these distilleries (although a fraction of the overall production world-wide) have helped lure beer and wine drinkers to the spirits category in growing numbers: by a reported 8.5 percent just in 2007 according to a 2008 Mintel International report.
The Directory of Craft Distillers (found on the American Distilling Institute’s website) shows the states leading the way today are Oregon, Colorado, California and Michigan. Which makes perfect sense when told by Bill Owens, founder and president of the American Distilling Institute, that many of today’s producers come to distilling through wine making and brewing. “Half of the industry has ties to a winery or brewery. Brewing, (there are over 1500 craft breweries in the US) is a great jumping-off point for working with grain based spirits; when you have that experience you are halfway there” according to Owens. Furthermore, wine makers have long employed grappa, brandy or eau de vie making as a way to utilize fruit not suitable for wine making and to diversify their product line.
But, unlike wine-making or home brewing, which can be legally set up relatively quickly and inexpensively in a garage, allowing one to cut their teeth, it takes enormous capital to start a distillery, put everything into barrels and wait years to see if you have made a quality product. “Even if your ultimate goal is whiskey, you may decide to produce a vodka or clear spirit to help get some cash flowing – they require no barrels or barrel ageing, both huge drains on capital,” advises Michael Sherwood of Sub Rosa Spirits and the Oregon Distiller’s Guild, the Nation’s first trade association for Craft Distilling.
Whatever path one takes there are many roadblocks for anyone wishing to enter this field.
“Currently there is an influx of states that are really attempting to support local agriculture and small farms that create jobs and revenue for their communities.” says Sarah Crowell of Harvest Spirits.
